Representing Berlin, Dummer, Gorham, Jefferson, Milan, Randolph, and Shelburne, New Hampshire  

 

Berlin Heritage Tour
17. Saint Anne Catholic Church

St. Anne Church was erected on the same site that was home to Berlin's first Catholic church. Construction began in 1899, and while the project actually took close to ten years to complete, the first mass was celebrated in May of 1901. It is interesting to note that it was built bit by bit, year by year, with money raised by the parishioners. Furthermore, in an atypical fashion, the wonderful design was methodically styled and created on-site. M.H. Roy, a contractor from Lewiston, Maine, was the builder.

The Church is an outstanding structure inside and out and is considered to be eclectic Victorian with Roman Corinthian influences. Two square towers, one on either side, grace the gabled end facade overlooking Pleasant Street. The exterior of the church is monumental and relatively simple, combining several Victorian architectural traits. In contrast, the interior design is sophisticated and intricate, reflecting craftsmanship and expense not usually associated with rural mill towns. In 1905, the Italian sculptor J. Castagnoli was hired to decorate the marble styled interior.

The pipe organ is an all wind Cassavantes organ made in St. Hyacinth, Quebec. It is an extremely valuable musical instrument and is in good working condition.

The church reflects the important history of the French speaking population of Berlin as well as their strong and faithful religious belief. The parish was also responsible for initiating parochial schools and hospital facilities in the city with the building of St. Regis Academy, and the St. Louis Hospital and Nursing School. St. Anne Church was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.

Further up Main Street is the headquarters for Pulp & Paper of America mill operations in Berlin. Across the Androscoggin River from here is the Burgess Pulp Mill. The Burgess section of Pulp & Paper of America operations produces pulp from trees. Pulp & Paper of America paper products are made from pulp at the Cascade Paper Mill a couple miles south on the Berlin-Gorham town line

18. Berlin Falls Mill

Thomas Green commenced construction of the first sawmill here at Berlin Falls in 1826. During August of that same year, a freshet destroyed the project and carried it off down river. Nearly twenty five years passed before a conglomerate of railroad entrepreneurs from Portland, Maine purchased the right to build another mill at this site in early 1851. J.B. Brown, Josiah S. Little, Nathan Winslow, and Hesekiah Winslow formed the firm knows as H. Winslow and Company. These enterprising businessmen eagerly sought to utilize the immense water power of the sharply-dropping falls, which had been estimated at some 20,000 horse power. The mill at Berlin Falls offered tremendous opportunity and potential as logs could then be milled in Berlin and shipped from Gorham to Portland via rail. This eliminated the process of floating logs all the way down the Androscoggin to the coast of Maine, and provided a critical base for regional economic growth. In fact, this proved to be the pivotal turning point in the development of our city.

In 1866, the Berlin Mills Company (an outgrowth of H. Winslow and Company), was formed under the principal direction of J.B. Brown. J.B. Brown eventually sold his interest on the company in 1868 to W.W. Brown who, interestingly, was no relation. The Berlin Mills Company continued to thrive and expand under the leadership of W.W. Brown and thence, succeeding members of his family. The company erected Berlin's first pulp mill in 1888 and by 1892, a two-machine paper mill was in operation. During the First World War, the company name was changed to Brown Company. This change reflected not only the family connection, but also the anti-German sentiment that was brought on by the war. While it was not the only mill in the city, the Brown Company mill be came closely identified with the people and the prosperity of the region. The present owner of Berlin's paper mill industry, Pulp & Paper of America employs about one quarter of the city's work force. Pulp & Paper of America owns 8,272 acres of forest land here in Berlin and manages a total of 95,000 acres in the North Country. Over the years, the mill at this site has developed into the Burgess pulp section (pictured at left), and is now chiefly situated on the east side of the river and a bit to the south of the original sawmill.

19. Pulp & Paper Of America Training And Development Center

These buildings, which are located across the street from the Congregational Church, were the site of large scale inventions and technological breakthroughs during the early twentieth century. Originally research laboratories, products such as Kodak paper, Bermico pipe, cellophane, Kream Krisp (the forerunner of today's Crisco shortening), mustard gas, and Nibroc towels were developed here. Unfortunately, Brown Company was better at hiring scientists and inventors than protecting their discoveries, and as a result, many patents were lost to the common market.

20. Congregational Church / United Church Of Christ

The Congregational Church was the first church built in Berlin. It was erected in 1882 on land donated by the Berlin Mills Company. The Church is an extremely fine example of the stick style form of Victorian architecture, which was popular at the end of the nineteenth century. This form is characterized by decorative wood detailing, Gothic archways and windows, and decoratively patterned shingling all of which are featured here. John Calvin Stevens was the architect.

The church bell was installed in 1885 and an organ was in place by 1904. There are two circular memorial stained glass windows, one on the south side of the church and one on the west wall above the altar. They are of European design and execution. T he one above the altar commemorates Emily Hart Brown, wife of W.W. Brown. The Congregational Church was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980.

21. Brown Company House / Northern Forest Heritage Park

Built in 1853 by H. Winslow and Company, the Brown Company House is one of the oldest wood framed structures in Berlin. It served as a temporary boarding facility for those coming to the mill. Newly arriving mill workers lived on the third floor, while the second floor was reserved for housing visiting company executives and VIP's. The first floor was designed with sitting rooms in the front and a large kitchen area in the rear. In more recent years, the Brown Company House became home to executives of the James River Corporation. Consequently, during that period, the building was extensively renovated. Then, in the summer of 1994, James River generously donated the house and ten acres of adjacent land along the Androscoggin River to the Northern Forest Heritage Park Trust.

The Northern Forest Heritage Park Trust was established to "preserve, interpret, and celebrate the working forest; convey its importance to the region and the nation; and honor our multi-cultural heritage of the northern White Mountains." The Heritage Park is open to the public and features exhibits, guest lectures, ethnic celebrations, as well as guided heritage and mill tours.

Continue north on Main Street

22. Boom Piers

These stone and wood structures which protrude from the waters of the Androscoggin River are the remains of boom piers. Those piers were in use until the mid-1960s. They were chiefly utilized during the early part of the twentieth century by the two large paper making companies in Berlin to separate their respective logs traveling down river. International Paper Company shared Berlin and her waterways with Brown Company for quite some time. In fact, from 1898 to 1930, International Paper Company operated the Glen Mill on the Tondreau Peninsula, which is located behind City Hall. Striking employees and the stock market crash of 1929 forced International Paper Company to eventually close its doors and leave Berlin.

Upriver, where where the boom piers begin, there was a sorting area where skilled river men shod in spiked boots would separate the logs. This was done by using long and narrow pick poles. Each individual log was identified by a company hammer mark. Large booms would be secured to the piers to divide the river in two, ensuring the separation of the passing logs. The boom piers were also used to separate long lumber logs from the shorter length pulpwood.

Perhaps what is most intersection about these enduring structures in the manner in which they were built. Construction took place during the winter when the river was frozen and the large wooden pier bases could be assembled atop the ice. Once the heavy duty floor of the pier base was completed, the surrounding ice was sawn through. Horses were then used to drag sleds loaded with large stones out on the river. The stones were piled on the floor until the top of the pier base was near the level of the ice. Crib framing and more stones were added until the base sat on the river bottom. To allow for high water, the piers were built up to about eight feet above the ice.

At the traffic light, turn left on Twelfth Street for a side trip through the Scandinavian Neighborhood. In four block, turn left on Sweden Street. Follow Sweden Street to Eighth Street, and take another left, returning back to Main Street.

23. Scandinavian Neighborhood

Scandinavian immigrants were highly sought after by mill recruiters not only for their expertise in logging, but also because they were acquainted with long, severe winters similar to those of the North Country. They chose to develop their individual neighborhoods in cluster, naming their streets after their homelands of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Denmark. As a whole, the entire Scandinavian Neighborhood was commonly known as "Norwegian Village."

Because of their love for winter, this group, more than any other, forged the way for winter sports in Berlin. Both cross-country ski racing and competition ski jumping were introduced to the region by the Scandinavian community. These events were featured at many of the winter carnivals that Berlin hosted.

Turn left on Main Street and continue traveling north for approximately 2 miles to the next site. Main Street becomes Riverside Drive in route.

24. Twitchell House

The house was built by Mr. and Mrs. Mark Twitchell on land bought for under twenty-five cents an acre. Mark Twitchell and his brother formed the successful Twitchell Construction Company. Mrs. Twitchell was very involved in the community, serving as President of both the Coos County Historical Society and the Berlin Women's Club. She donated the land located across the street for the Technical College.

Continue north on Riverside Drive / Route 16 for another 2 miles

25. Nansen Ski Jump

Other than its socioeconomic forest-based heritage, Berlin is probably best known for its major contribution to the development of skiing in this country. The use of skis by newly arriving Scandinavians was at first utilitarian, being a means of winter travel around the community. In time, cross-country ski racing became popular and Berlin became known as the "Cradle of Nordic Skiing" in America. The Nansen Ski Club, which is named in honor of arctic explorer Fridtjof Nansen, was founded in 1872 as the Ski Klubbin. Today, it remains the oldest continuously organized ski club in the United States. 

Starting in the 1890's, skiers used a small hill in Norwegian Village to practice and perform their jumps. Then, in 1936, a new jump was constructed here at this site thanks to a cooperative effort between the Nansen Ski Club and the City of Berlin. This 80 meter jump has a 171.5 foot tower, a 225 foot vertical drop, and a descent angle of approximately 37.5 degrees. For almost fifty gears this was the largest ski jump in the eastern United States and the foremost jump in the country. Furthermore, this was the site of most all major championship ski jumping competitions, as well as many Olympic tryouts. Several famous ski jumpers were competitors here--including a host of Berlinites who went on to compete in the Olympics.

From the ski jump, turn around and travel back down Route 16 (Riverside Drive), and take a right on Cates Hill Road. The Road Climbs Steeply up the hill. Take a left at the stop sign at the top of the hill.

26. Cates Hill Road

This area, once considered the backwoods of Berlin, is now one of the city's most desirable neighborhoods and is treasured for its beautiful scenic vistas. Mounts Madison and Adams of the Northern Presidential Range lie to the south, the Kilkenny Range and Percy Peaks are seen to the west, and the Mahoosuc Range is to the east. 

Continue for another 3 miles or so back towards the center of the city on Cates Hill Road, Which will eventually become Hillside Avenue. You will intersect Prospect Street on a steep section of Hillside Avenue.

27. Prospect Street Area

Branching off of Hillside Avenue, the general area of Prospect Street and the surrounding down-slope neighborhood was once known as Berlin Heights. It was developed to accommodate the city's upper class population. Residing in Berlin Heights signified wealth and social prestige. There are some fine and elaborate homes throughout this neighborhood.

Further down hillside Avenue is the intersection with Willard Street. Take a left on Willard Street, then a right on Emery Street, and another right on Madison Avenue. This loop will lead you back to Hillside Avenue and take you through the Irish Neighborhood.

28. Irish Neighborhood

Irishmen were sought after by Brown Company and hired for their skill at building roads and bridges. The Irish Neighborhood, commonly known as Irish Acres, centered primarily around St. Kieran's Church, and St. Patrick's School--both located on Emery Street. Saint Michael School, which is now the city's only Catholic parochial school, is situated in the former St. Patrick's school building.

Take a left on Hillside Avenue, and continue across the Dead River and the railroad tracks. Hillside Avenue then becomes Second Avenue. After one block, turn right on Madigan Street, then take the first left on Third Avenue. In two blocks, turn right on Mount Forest Street, and then take a left on Russian Street, which leads to the Russian Neighborhood.

29. Russian Neighborhood

The first Russians to settle here in the North Country arrived around 1900. Like other immigrants, Russian men came to Berlin to labor in the mills. Though well recognized for their strong work ethic, most all of these men were living without female companionship. In fact, in 1915 the Russian community consisted of 300 men, only 32 of whom had brought their families with them. Hearing of this situation, the Holy Resurrection Church on Boston convinced their mother church to build an Orthodox Church here in Berlin. This provided moral and spiritual guidance, and also helped to enable the importation of women from Russia. The establishment of the parish was supported by the Brown Company. They supplied workers to assist with the clearing of the elevated site, as well as with the construction of the building. The church remains an important part of Berlin's cultural heritage and continues to stand as a tribute to the city's Russian community.

30. Holy Resurrection Church / Orthodox

Built in 1915, the Holy Resurrection Church is an excellent example of Byzantine eclectic style. The front facade of the church consists of a wooden staircase, a wide landing, and a projecting gabled portico which contains the vestibule. The portico has three arched, small paneled windows in triptych formation above the entrance. the belfry features three different toned bells made by the Meneely Bell Company of Troy, New York.

The interior of the church is plaster, and has wooden flooring and trim work. There are no pews or chairs. The inner altar is separated from the front altar in the Orthodox manner by a finely-detailed wood partition consisting of two major pilasters, four minor pilasters, and four arched panels. Inside these panels are four major icons imported from Russia. Each pane also has two additional minor icons above the baseboard. Only Orthodox are allowed into the altar behind the panel. The Holy Resurrection Church is the only Orthodox Church in the North Country and was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.

Travel back on Russian Street to Mount Forest Street, and take a right. Continue down Mount Forest Street to the railroad tracks and the Grand Trunk Station. After the tracks, Mount Forest Street becomes Exchange Street.

31. Grand Trunk Station

The Grand Trunk Railroad Station was built in 1917 and was designed by H.R. Stafford. It is brick faced with Saginaw stone, and the base and dressing are Vermont pink granite. The original roof was made of Ludowici tile of imperial Spanish pattern. The interior was finished with oak. This Station was part of the most successful segment of the Grand Trunk line--being the Portland, Maine to Island Pond, Vermont run. The Grand Trunk Station is now owned by Tri-County Community Action Program.

Exchange Street then intersects Pleasant Street (a one-way street), which is also Route 16 south. From this point, either continue straight through the intersection on Exchange street back downtown to Main Street and Route 16 north or turn right and visit the Italian Neighborhood on the Berlin-Gorham town line by the Cascade Paper Mill. To reach this area, follow Pleasant Street south to Glen Avenue, continue for about 1 mile, and turn left on Cascade Falls Road at the blinking yellow light. You will be passing by the mill as you enter Cascade Flats.

32. Italian Neighborhood

The Italian Neighborhood is situated mainly here in the Cascade Flats area. Italians were encouraged to come and work in Berlin principally because of their masonry skills. Examples of their impressive and long-lasting work can be seen in commercial, industrial, and residential structures throughout the city.

Italian immigrants also added vibrant and spirited culture to the North Country. In fact, many fine entertainers and musicians hailed from the Berlin-Gorham Italian Community.

Cascade Falls Road can be followed through back to Route 16 where you may travel north to downtown Berlin, or south to Gorham.

Acknowledgements

We would like to thank the following people and organizations for helping to make the Heritage Tour of Berlin, NH possible:

American Greenways Dupont Award Program, AmeriCorps, Otis Bartlett, Roland Bergeron, City of Berlin, Berlin Economic Development Council Inc, Linda Bornstein, Pam Bouchard, Norman Charest, Conservation Fund, Martha Creegan, Crown Vantage, Kurt master, Moriah Design, David Morin, Nansen Ski Club, National Geographic Society, National Park Service, Nothern Forst Heritage Park, Northern White Mountain Chamber of Commerce, Tri-County Community Action Program, York Land Services.

Published by Gulfside Press, Design and layout by Conserv-Tech Media Inc. Printed by Smith and Town. October, 1996

Androscoggin Valley Chamber Of Commerce
961 Main Street   Berlin, NH 03570
(603)-752-6060      (800)-992-7480