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Berlin Heritage Tour
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17. Saint Anne Catholic Church
St. Anne Church was erected on the
same site that was home to Berlin's first Catholic church. Construction
began in 1899, and while the project actually took close to ten years to
complete, the first mass was celebrated in May of 1901. It is interesting
to note that it was built bit by bit, year by year, with money raised by
the parishioners. Furthermore, in an atypical fashion, the wonderful design
was methodically styled and created on-site. M.H. Roy, a contractor from
Lewiston, Maine, was the builder.
The Church is an outstanding structure inside and out and is considered
to be eclectic Victorian with Roman Corinthian influences. Two square towers,
one on either side, grace the gabled end facade overlooking Pleasant Street.
The exterior of the church is monumental and relatively simple, combining
several Victorian architectural traits. In contrast, the interior design
is sophisticated and intricate, reflecting craftsmanship and expense not
usually associated with rural mill towns. In 1905, the Italian sculptor
J. Castagnoli was hired to decorate the marble styled interior.
The pipe organ is an all wind Cassavantes organ made in St. Hyacinth,
Quebec. It is an extremely valuable musical instrument and is in good working
condition.
The church reflects the important history of the French speaking population
of Berlin as well as their strong and faithful religious belief. The parish
was also responsible for initiating parochial schools and hospital facilities
in the city with the building of St. Regis Academy, and the St. Louis Hospital
and Nursing School. St. Anne Church was listed on the National Register
of Historic Places in 1979.
Further up Main Street is the headquarters for Pulp & Paper of America mill operations
in Berlin. Across the Androscoggin River from here is the Burgess Pulp
Mill. The Burgess section of Pulp & Paper of America operations produces pulp from
trees. Pulp & Paper of America paper products are made from pulp at the Cascade Paper
Mill a couple miles south on the Berlin-Gorham town line |
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18. Berlin Falls Mill
Thomas Green commenced construction
of the first sawmill here at Berlin Falls in 1826. During August of that
same year, a freshet destroyed the project and carried it off down river.
Nearly twenty five years passed before a conglomerate of railroad entrepreneurs
from Portland, Maine purchased the right to build another mill at this
site in early 1851. J.B. Brown, Josiah S. Little, Nathan Winslow, and Hesekiah
Winslow formed the firm knows as H. Winslow and Company. These enterprising
businessmen eagerly sought to utilize the immense water power of the sharply-dropping
falls, which had been estimated at some 20,000 horse power. The mill at
Berlin Falls offered tremendous opportunity and potential as logs could
then be milled in Berlin and shipped from Gorham to Portland via rail.
This eliminated the process of floating logs all the way down the Androscoggin
to the coast of Maine, and provided a critical base for regional economic
growth. In fact, this proved to be the pivotal turning point in the development
of our city.
In 1866, the Berlin Mills Company (an outgrowth of H. Winslow and Company),
was formed under the principal direction of J.B. Brown. J.B. Brown eventually
sold his interest on the company in 1868 to W.W. Brown who, interestingly,
was no relation. The Berlin Mills Company continued to thrive and expand
under the leadership of W.W. Brown and thence, succeeding members of his
family. The company erected Berlin's first pulp mill in 1888 and by 1892,
a two-machine paper mill was in operation. During the First World War,
the company name was changed to Brown Company. This change reflected not
only the family connection, but also the anti-German sentiment that was
brought on by the war. While it was not the only mill in the city, the
Brown Company mill be came closely identified with the people and the prosperity
of the region. The present owner of Berlin's paper mill industry, Pulp & Paper of America
employs about one quarter of the city's work force. Pulp & Paper of America owns
8,272 acres of forest land here in Berlin and manages a total of 95,000
acres in the North Country. Over the years, the mill at this site has developed
into the Burgess pulp section (pictured at left), and is now chiefly situated
on the east side of the river and a bit to the south of the original sawmill. |
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19. Pulp & Paper Of America Training And Development Center
These buildings, which
are located across the street from the Congregational Church, were the
site of large scale inventions and technological breakthroughs during the
early twentieth century. Originally research laboratories, products such
as Kodak paper, Bermico pipe, cellophane, Kream Krisp (the forerunner of
today's Crisco shortening), mustard gas, and Nibroc towels were developed
here. Unfortunately, Brown Company was better at hiring scientists and
inventors than protecting their discoveries, and as a result, many patents
were lost to the common market.
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20. Congregational Church / United Church Of Christ
The Congregational Church
was the first church built in Berlin. It was erected in 1882 on land donated
by the Berlin Mills Company. The Church is an extremely fine example of
the stick style form of Victorian architecture, which was popular at the
end of the nineteenth century. This form is characterized by decorative
wood detailing, Gothic archways and windows, and decoratively patterned
shingling all of which are featured here. John Calvin Stevens was the architect.
The church bell was installed in 1885 and an organ was in place by 1904.
There are two circular memorial stained glass windows, one on the south
side of the church and one on the west wall above the altar. They are of
European design and execution. T he one above the altar commemorates Emily
Hart Brown, wife of W.W. Brown. The Congregational Church was listed on
the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. |
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21. Brown Company House / Northern Forest Heritage Park
Built in 1853 by H. Winslow and
Company, the Brown Company House is one of the oldest wood framed structures
in Berlin. It served as a temporary boarding facility for those coming
to the mill. Newly arriving mill workers lived on the third floor, while
the second floor was reserved for housing visiting company executives and
VIP's. The first floor was designed with sitting rooms in the front and
a large kitchen area in the rear. In more recent years, the Brown Company
House became home to executives of the James River Corporation. Consequently,
during that period, the building was extensively renovated. Then, in the
summer of 1994, James River generously donated the house and ten acres
of adjacent land along the Androscoggin River to the Northern Forest Heritage
Park Trust.
The Northern Forest Heritage Park Trust was established to "preserve,
interpret, and celebrate the working forest; convey its importance to the
region and the nation; and honor our multi-cultural heritage of the northern
White Mountains." The Heritage Park is open to the public and features
exhibits, guest lectures, ethnic celebrations, as well as guided heritage
and mill tours.
Continue north on Main Street |
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22. Boom Piers
These stone and wood structures which
protrude from the waters of the Androscoggin River are the remains of boom
piers. Those piers were in use until the mid-1960s. They were chiefly utilized
during the early part of the twentieth century by the two large paper making
companies in Berlin to separate their respective logs traveling down river.
International Paper Company shared Berlin and her waterways with Brown
Company for quite some time. In fact, from 1898 to 1930, International
Paper Company operated the Glen Mill on the Tondreau Peninsula, which is
located behind City Hall. Striking employees and the stock market crash
of 1929 forced International Paper Company to eventually close its doors
and leave Berlin.
Upriver, where where the boom piers begin, there was a sorting area
where skilled river men shod in spiked boots would separate the logs. This
was done by using long and narrow pick poles. Each individual log was identified
by a company hammer mark. Large booms would be secured to the piers to
divide the river in two, ensuring the separation of the passing logs. The
boom piers were also used to separate long lumber logs from the shorter
length pulpwood.
Perhaps what is most intersection about these enduring structures in
the manner in which they were built. Construction took place during the
winter when the river was frozen and the large wooden pier bases could
be assembled atop the ice. Once the heavy duty floor of the pier base was
completed, the surrounding ice was sawn through. Horses were then used
to drag sleds loaded with large stones out on the river. The stones were
piled on the floor until the top of the pier base was near the level of
the ice. Crib framing and more stones were added until the base sat on
the river bottom. To allow for high water, the piers were built up to about
eight feet above the ice.
At the traffic light, turn left on Twelfth Street for a side trip
through the Scandinavian Neighborhood. In four block, turn left on Sweden
Street. Follow Sweden Street to Eighth Street, and take another left, returning
back to Main Street. |
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23. Scandinavian Neighborhood
Scandinavian immigrants were highly sought after by mill recruiters
not only for their expertise in logging, but also because they were acquainted
with long, severe winters similar to those of the North Country. They chose
to develop their individual neighborhoods in cluster, naming their streets
after their homelands of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Denmark. As a whole,
the entire Scandinavian Neighborhood was commonly known as "Norwegian Village."
Because of their love for winter, this group, more than any other, forged
the way for winter sports in Berlin. Both cross-country ski racing and
competition ski jumping were introduced to the region by the Scandinavian
community. These events were featured at many of the winter carnivals that
Berlin hosted.
Turn left on Main Street and continue traveling north for approximately
2 miles to the next site. Main Street becomes Riverside Drive in route. |
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24. Twitchell House
The house was built by Mr. and
Mrs. Mark Twitchell on land bought for under twenty-five cents an acre.
Mark Twitchell and his brother formed the successful Twitchell Construction
Company. Mrs. Twitchell was very involved in the community, serving as
President of both the Coos County Historical Society and the Berlin Women's
Club. She donated the land located across the street for the Technical
College.
Continue north on Riverside Drive / Route 16 for another 2 miles |
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25. Nansen Ski Jump
Other than
its socioeconomic forest-based heritage, Berlin is probably best known
for its major contribution to the development of skiing in this country.
The use of skis by newly arriving Scandinavians was at first utilitarian,
being a means of winter travel around the community. In time, cross-country
ski racing became popular and Berlin became known as the "Cradle of Nordic
Skiing" in America. The Nansen Ski Club, which is named in honor of arctic
explorer Fridtjof Nansen, was founded in 1872 as the Ski Klubbin. Today,
it remains the oldest continuously organized ski club in the United States.
Starting in the 1890's, skiers used a small hill in Norwegian Village
to practice and perform their jumps. Then, in 1936, a new jump was constructed
here at this site thanks to a cooperative effort between the Nansen Ski
Club and the City of Berlin. This 80 meter jump has a 171.5 foot tower,
a 225 foot vertical drop, and a descent angle of approximately 37.5 degrees.
For almost fifty gears this was the largest ski jump in the eastern United
States and the foremost jump in the country. Furthermore, this was the
site of most all major championship ski jumping competitions, as well as
many Olympic tryouts. Several famous ski jumpers were competitors here--including
a host of Berlinites who went on to compete in the Olympics.
From the ski jump, turn around and travel back down Route 16 (Riverside
Drive), and take a right on Cates Hill Road. The Road Climbs Steeply up
the hill. Take a left at the stop sign at the top of the hill. |
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26. Cates Hill Road
This area, once considered the backwoods of Berlin, is now one of the
city's most desirable neighborhoods and is treasured for its beautiful
scenic vistas. Mounts Madison and Adams of the Northern Presidential Range
lie to the south, the Kilkenny Range and Percy Peaks are seen to the west,
and the Mahoosuc Range is to the east.
Continue for another 3 miles or so back towards the center of
the city on Cates Hill Road, Which will eventually become Hillside Avenue.
You will intersect Prospect Street on a steep section of Hillside Avenue. |
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27. Prospect Street Area
Branching off of Hillside Avenue, the general area of Prospect Street
and the surrounding down-slope neighborhood was once known as Berlin Heights.
It was developed to accommodate the city's upper class population. Residing
in Berlin Heights signified wealth and social prestige. There are some
fine and elaborate homes throughout this neighborhood.
Further down hillside Avenue is the intersection with Willard
Street. Take a left on Willard Street, then a right on Emery Street, and
another right on Madison Avenue. This loop will lead you back to Hillside
Avenue and take you through the Irish Neighborhood. |
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28. Irish Neighborhood
Irishmen were sought after by Brown Company and hired for their skill
at building roads and bridges. The Irish Neighborhood, commonly known as
Irish Acres, centered primarily around St. Kieran's Church, and St. Patrick's
School--both located on Emery Street. Saint Michael School,
which is now the city's only Catholic parochial school, is situated in
the former St. Patrick's school building.
Take a left on Hillside Avenue, and continue across the Dead River
and the railroad tracks. Hillside Avenue then becomes Second Avenue. After
one block, turn right on Madigan Street, then take the first left on Third
Avenue. In two blocks, turn right on Mount Forest Street, and then take
a left on Russian Street, which leads to the Russian Neighborhood. |
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29. Russian Neighborhood
The first Russians to settle here in the North Country arrived around
1900. Like other immigrants, Russian men came to Berlin to labor in the
mills. Though well recognized for their strong work ethic, most all of
these men were living without female companionship. In fact, in 1915 the
Russian community consisted of 300 men, only 32 of whom had brought their
families with them. Hearing of this situation, the Holy Resurrection Church
on Boston convinced their mother church to build an Orthodox Church here
in Berlin. This provided moral and spiritual guidance, and also helped
to enable the importation of women from Russia. The establishment of the
parish was supported by the Brown Company. They supplied workers to assist
with the clearing of the elevated site, as well as with the construction
of the building. The church remains an important part of Berlin's cultural
heritage and continues to stand as a tribute to the city's Russian community. |
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30. Holy Resurrection Church / Orthodox
Built in 1915, the Holy Resurrection
Church is an excellent example of Byzantine eclectic style. The front facade
of the church consists of a wooden staircase, a wide landing, and a projecting
gabled portico which contains the vestibule. The portico has three arched,
small paneled windows in triptych formation above the entrance. the belfry
features three different toned bells made by the Meneely Bell Company of
Troy, New York.
The interior of the church is plaster, and has wooden flooring and trim
work. There are no pews or chairs. The inner altar is separated from the
front altar in the Orthodox manner by a finely-detailed wood partition
consisting of two major pilasters, four minor pilasters, and four arched
panels. Inside these panels are four major icons imported from Russia.
Each pane also has two additional minor icons above the baseboard. Only
Orthodox are allowed into the altar behind the panel. The Holy Resurrection
Church is the only Orthodox Church in the North Country and was listed
on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979.
Travel back on Russian Street to Mount Forest Street, and take
a right. Continue down Mount Forest Street to the railroad tracks and the
Grand Trunk Station. After the tracks, Mount Forest Street becomes Exchange
Street. |
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31. Grand Trunk Station
The Grand Trunk Railroad Station
was built in 1917 and was designed by H.R. Stafford. It is brick faced
with Saginaw stone, and the base and dressing are Vermont pink granite.
The original roof was made of Ludowici tile of imperial Spanish pattern.
The interior was finished with oak. This Station was part of the most successful
segment of the Grand Trunk line--being the Portland, Maine to Island Pond,
Vermont run. The Grand Trunk Station is now owned by Tri-County Community
Action Program.
Exchange Street then intersects Pleasant Street (a one-way street),
which is also Route 16 south. From this point, either continue straight
through the intersection on Exchange street back downtown to Main Street
and Route 16 north or turn right and visit the Italian Neighborhood on
the Berlin-Gorham town line by the Cascade Paper Mill. To reach this area,
follow Pleasant Street south to Glen Avenue, continue for about 1 mile,
and turn left on Cascade Falls Road at the blinking yellow light. You will
be passing by the mill as you enter Cascade Flats. |
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32. Italian Neighborhood
The Italian Neighborhood is situated mainly here in the Cascade Flats
area. Italians were encouraged to come and work in Berlin principally because
of their masonry skills. Examples of their impressive and long-lasting
work can be seen in commercial, industrial, and residential structures
throughout the city.
Italian immigrants also added vibrant and spirited culture to the North
Country. In fact, many fine entertainers and musicians hailed from the
Berlin-Gorham Italian Community.
Cascade Falls Road can be followed through back to Route 16 where
you may travel north to downtown Berlin, or south to Gorham. |
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Acknowledgements
We would like to thank the following people and organizations for
helping to make the Heritage Tour of Berlin, NH possible:
American Greenways Dupont Award Program, AmeriCorps, Otis Bartlett,
Roland Bergeron, City of Berlin, Berlin Economic Development Council Inc,
Linda Bornstein, Pam Bouchard, Norman Charest, Conservation Fund, Martha
Creegan, Crown Vantage, Kurt master, Moriah Design, David Morin, Nansen
Ski Club, National Geographic Society, National Park Service, Nothern Forst
Heritage Park, Northern White Mountain Chamber of Commerce, Tri-County
Community Action Program, York Land Services.
Published by Gulfside Press, Design and layout by Conserv-Tech Media
Inc. Printed by Smith and Town. October, 1996
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Androscoggin Valley Chamber Of Commerce
961 Main Street Berlin, NH 03570
(603)-752-6060 (800)-992-7480
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